10x10 Awards／《Hodinkee Japan》編輯長 關口優的年度十大錶款是哪些牌子？

今年我們邀請到《Hodinkee Japan》編輯長 關口優（Yu Sekiguchi），為10x10 Awards選出他的年度十大錶款。在2019年加入Hearst Digital Japan，隨後成為《Hodinkee Japan》編輯長的關口優，對手錶有著濃厚的興趣與熱情，關於業界趨勢他也有著敏銳的觀察與獨到的見解。來看看關口優對於今年的鐘錶界有什麼看法、對於明年又有哪些預測呢？

<趨勢分析>

1. 2025年的年度關鍵字是什麼？今年可歸納出哪些趨勢？

What’s the keyword of the year for 2025? What major trends can we identify this year?

談到明顯的趨勢，是錶徑縮小（尺寸變小）以及正裝錶的回歸。不過，今年更令人印象深刻的，是設計多樣性帶來的一項現象「跳時錶（guichet watch）」的增加，包括經典的跳時款式，如卡地亞的Tank à Guichets與蕭邦Quattro，以及LOUIS VUITTON的Tambour Convergence。我認為這些腕錶在當下這個時代反而帶來了一種「新鮮感」，形成了一種有趣的矛盾。

Speaking of clear trends, one could cite the reduction in size (smaller diameters) and the revival of the dress watch. However, what was particularly striking, showing the diversity in design, was the increase in guichet (window) watches. These include classical jumping hour pieces like the CARTIER Tank à Guichets and the CHOPARD Quattro, as well as newly conceived watches such as the LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Convergence. I believe these are, paradoxically, giving a fresh impression in the current era.

2. 今年哪個品牌的表現，你認為是被低估的？

Which brand do you think has been underrated this year?

GIRARD-PERREGAUX、GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL、SINN以及FREDERIQUE CONSTANT等品牌。近年來，買家的關注度大幅集中於少數幾個主要品牌，如百達翡麗和勞力士，而獨立製錶品牌則在其他領域逐漸擴張。從某些角度來說，這意味著許多品牌都可被視為「被低估」。但那些擁有深厚歷史根基、持續生產經典錶款、並堅持傳統與技術傳承的品牌，更值得特別關注。

Brands like GIRARD-PERREGAUX, GLASHÜTTE ORIGINAL, SINN, and FREDERIQUE CONSTANT, among others. In recent years, there has been a significant concentration of buyers toward a few major brands such as PATEK PHILIPPE and ROLEX, while independent brands have increased their presence elsewhere. In a sense, this means many brands can be considered underrated, but those with authentic roots, a continuing production of classic watches, and a commitment to tradition and inherited technology are particularly worth paying attention to.

3. 對於明年的錶界有哪些預測或期待？最⼤的挑戰會是什麼？

What are your predictions or expectations for the watch industry in 2026? What do you think will be the biggest challenge?

由於美國關稅問題等因素，市場的走向正處於過去十年中最不確定的時期。我們可能會看到二級市場的總交易價值在今年年底前，因「臨時需求」而上升，而這股趨勢也可能延續到明年初。 然而有傳聞指出勞力士將大幅調漲價格（特別是在日本），儘管這仍取決於二級市場對現有價值的支撐程度，但若價格最終高到一般消費者難以負擔，「五千美元以內」的手錶對於市場來說就會具備高度吸引力。此外，這種市場轉變必須由大型品牌帶領，而非僅靠少數獨立品牌推動，包括浪琴、SEIKO、CITIZEN、NOMOS等品牌，也包括那些高價品牌推出更具性價比的入門級錶款。

Due in part to tariff issues in the U.S., the direction of the market is at its most uncertain point in a decade. We may see the total value of the secondary market rise until the end of the year in the form of last-minute demand, and that trend could carry over into the beginning of next year. However, there are rumors of a significant price hike for Rolex (especially in Japan). Although this depends on how well the secondary market supports the current value, there is a risk that prices may finally exceed the reach of general consumers. If that happens, there will be a demand for more appealing watches under $5,000. Furthermore, this shift needs to be led by major brands, not just by a handful of independents as is the case now. This includes brands like LONGINES, SEIKO, CITIZEN, and NOMOS, as well as the development of value-proposition entry models for brands with higher price points.

4. 今年有哪個品牌是你很想選它，卻找不到欄目可放進來的遺珠之憾？

Is there any particular timepiece that you personally liked—or perhaps felt it was a pity—not to include on the final list?

江詩丹頓Traditionnelle萬年曆逆跳日期鏤空款，以及LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Convergence與ŌTSUKA LŌTEC No. 5 Kai。

The VACHERON CONSTANTIN Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface, a model commemorating the brand's 270th anniversary, along with the LOUIS VUITTON Tambour Convergence and the ŌTSUKA LŌTEC No. 5 Kai.

江詩丹頓以奢華方式結合多項經典複雜功能；LV則以跳時設計帶來對於顯示時間的新詮釋；而ŌTSUKA LŌTEC則提供創新的流動小時機制。這三款腕錶都不僅僅是稀有機械結構的體現，更進一步凝結為具有代表性的設計，讓它們超越傳統製錶的既有框架。

The VACHERON CONSTANTIN combines multiple classic complications in a luxurious manner; the LV offers a new interpretation of disc display; and the ŌTSUKA LŌTEC provides an innovative wandering hour mechanism. Each of these watches transcends being just a rare mechanism, instead solidifying into an iconic design that places them outside existing frameworks in watchmaking.

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